Marrakech

Marrakech disorients deliberately. The medina is a grid that isn't a grid, the souks change character every thirty metres, and the calls to prayer arrive at unexpected angles. Most visitors spend the first morning feeling lost and the second morning realising that's the point.

When to go

March through May and October through November are the ideal windows: warm but not punishing, and the city feels less compressed. June through August pushes 40°C and above, which is a serious consideration unless you plan to spend afternoons in a riad pool. Winter is mild in the city but can be cold at night.

What it's actually like

The Jemaa el-Fna square changes through the day in a way that rewards sitting at a rooftop café with a mint tea and watching. In the morning it's orange juice stalls and snake charmers. By evening it's food stalls, storytellers, and enough noise to feel genuinely medieval. It's theatrical, it's relentless, and it's unlike anything else.

The souks require patience and a willingness to be approached. The quality varies enormously: learn to walk past the first ten shops showing the same thing.

The neighbourhood you want

Stay inside the medina, in a riad — a traditional house built around a central courtyard. The riads around the Mouassine neighbourhood are the best combination of character and proximity to the good souks.

Don't miss

Book a hammam at a proper local establishment rather than the tourist-facing spas near the main square. It costs a fraction of the price and is significantly better. Your riad will recommend one.