Bali

Bali sits in the awkward position of being both genuinely extraordinary and thoroughly over-touristed, and the trick is navigating between the two. Get it right and it delivers: rice terraces that glow green in the morning light, temple ceremonies that happen regardless of whether you're watching, and surf breaks that range from beginner-friendly to genuinely dangerous.

When to go

April through October is the dry season: clear skies, low humidity, and the best conditions for surfing the west coast. July and August are the busiest months by a distance. If you want the landscape without the crowds, shoulder months of April, May, or September hit the sweet spot. Avoid November through March if you dislike rain — the wet season is relentless.

What it's actually like

The south (Kuta, Seminyak, Canggu) is beach resorts, rooftop bars, and Australian tourists. It can be fun, it can be exhausting. Ubud, an hour north, operates at a different pace: rice paddies, art galleries, and cooking classes. Most people want both. The big temples deliver what they promise: Tanah Lot at sunset, Uluwatu on the clifftop. That's rarer than it sounds.

The neighbourhood you want

Stay in Canggu if you're there for surf and nightlife, Ubud if you want the jungle-and-wellness version, Seminyak if you want good restaurants without Kuta's chaos. Each feels like a different island.

Don't miss

Rent a scooter at dawn and ride the back roads through the Tegallalang rice terraces before the tour buses arrive. It costs almost nothing and the light at 7am is something else.